thảo luận mod tay cầm PS2 cho PSP !!!

mình đọc được trên net có người đã mod được tay cầm PS2 để chơi với PSP, một số hình ảnh, thông tin và link :



link http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=17761.msg133741#msg133741

mình copy lại a e xem

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I figured it would be a good idea to start a thread for compiling pinout and soldering info regarding hard wired PSP controller mods as a general reference. I have some pictures and info on this which I have posted in a few separate threads, so most of this will be copied directly from those. There is also a some pictures and info about how to rewire Sony Dualshock controllers for use with the PSP.

The points labeled in the following pictures do not represent the only places where these signals can be accessed, nor do they necessarily represent the simplest, they are just the points which I thought were the easiest to solder to. If there are any errors in the pictures or text below, or if you have suggestions on how things could be done better, point these out and I will make the appropriate corrections.

Also, if anyone is having difficulty seeing the images in this thread, they can also be viewed here. Everyone is welcome to copy, edit, repost, and improve upon these pics in any way they would like to.


Soldering to the Powerboard

For the X [] /\ and O buttons, I found it easiest to solder through the vias on the powerboard. If you use 30awg wire you can run the wires under the board and poke the wire up through the holes, then just apply a little solder and trim away any excess wire. For the button bar connections it is similar, except these are blind vias, so you have to go through the top.

Here you can see a board with the points soldered. Notice the small beads of solder on the vias leading from the face button contacts and the positive and negative power LED points, the wires from these points all run underneath the board. The button bar wiring is more obvious, in the picture there are five wires connected to the Home, Volume-, Volume+, Start, and Select vias.

Soldering the Right Trigger

The leads from the right trigger button do not run through the powerboard, but instead join into the ribbon cable and connect directly to the motherboard. To connect the right trigger you can solder to the pin on the back of the ZIF connector on the motherboard (the one that connects the ribbon cable from the powerboard.) You can also solder any or all of the other powerboard connections to this ZIF connector, that is if you are crazy or just really looking for a good challenge.

Soldering to the D-pad

I use a cheap ($15 at RadioShack) "helping hands" soldering clamp that is very useful for this type of precise work. It has a set of gator clips and a magnifying glass on adjustable arms, plus a soldering iron holder that I continually burn myself on. Here it is on the RadioShack website. This one is kind of cheaply constructed and prone to tipping over, but using something like it can be a big help.

To begin, clean the pins on the back of the connector with some rubbing alcohol. Next apply a little flux to the pins you are going to be soldering to. Because the pins are so small and close together, I decided not to add any solder to them directly, as it is very easy to bridge them with excess solder. So for each of the five points this was the basic procedure:

• Strip a short amount at the end of the wire
• Dip the stripped end in flux
• Melt a small amount of solder onto iron tip
• Touch the tip of the wire to the iron to transfer a small amount of solder
• Dip tinned wire end back into flux again
• Clean all excess solder from iron tip
• Hold the wire firmly in place against connector pin with tweezers
• Carefully touch iron tip to the back of the wire (the flux on the wire and pin should help the solder bond quickly with the pin)
• Hold the wire very still for a couple seconds while the solder cools
• Inspect under magnification to ensure there is a good bond and no bridged pins

Once all the wires are soldered its a good idea to check everything again with a multimeter, then adjust your wires so they will not interfere with the fit of other components (picture 2). I applied a little superglue to the wires to secure them to each other and keep them in shape

Soldering to the Power Switch

This may be useful if you have a broken power switch and want to send the On/Off/Standby and Hold functions out to an external controller or switch. The switch basically works like the other buttons and activates these functions by grounding pins 1, 3, or 4 to pin 2. The power on/off and standby functions are all activated by pin 4 when grounded to pin 2 (power off or standby is determined by how long the switch is held in position.)

Rewiring a Ps1 Controller

The following image shows the pinouts for rewiring a Sony SCPH-1200 Ps1 Analog Controller for a point to point connection to the PSP, with the addition of a modified right analog stick (A2D mod) to mimic the X, [], /\, and O buttons.

The Ps1 controller and the PSP differ slightly in the way the analog stick is grounded, so some simple modifications will need to be made to the controllers PCB for it to work. This may involve cutting traces, desoldering components, or bridging points with additional wires. It’s difficult to be specific here because Sony seems to change the PCB layouts on their controllers like most people change socks. What is important is that the pins on the potentiometers (3 on each) are wired and grounded according to the diagrams above. Keep checking all of the pot pins with a multimeter, and make any necessary modifications until everything is correct.

The points labeled A1, A2, and A3 on the left analog stick will be wired to three of the four contacts on the PSPs Analog nub or the motherboards analog contact pads. The remaining contact should be grounded with the other buttons. So, when looking at your PSP motherboard in the way it would normally be oriented while using the PSP, the analog connections are as follows:

[[ ] ] =GND
[ [ ]] =A1
[[ ]] =A2
[ [ ]] =A3

The wiring of the right analog stick shown in the diagram is optional, and allows it to perform the same function as the “Razor Nub” on the PSP. This will require some additional work beyond just rewiring the solder points, to make the potentiometers function like simple momentary switches. You will need to desolder the right analog stick, remove the potentiometers, and cut away part of the conductive track inside them. This is all much easier than it sounds, and TimmyDX has made an excellent video tutorial on how to do it.

As I mentioned earlier there were many different hardware revisions to these controllers, so yours may not look exactly like the picture, but the basic ideas here should be applicable for most Ps1 analog controllers. I think it is safe to assume that the pin order on the ribbon cable connector should be the same for all Ps1 controllers which use the plastic film button sheet, but I am not 100% sure of this. The early Ps1 Analog controllers do not use the button sheet, but instead have the button contacts on a solid PCB, in which case these pinouts do not apply.

Here is another much sloppier example using a cut-off parallel printer cable, and excluding the right analog wiring. When soldering to the pins on the ribbon cable connector with the wider stranded wire from the printer cable, I found it easier to alternate the wire positioning for all adjacent wires as shown in the picture. This provides a little more room to work, and decreases the possibility of accidentally desoldering already finished wiring.

Ps2 Dualshock2 Info

The Ps2 Dualshock2 controller operates quite differently when using the circuitry on the PCB (most of the buttons are analog and pressure sensitive) but since this mod is bypassing all of that with straight point to point connections, wiring should be very similar to the Ps1 Dualshock. The Dualshock2 also has a different pin order on the ribbon cable, separate ground lines for analog and digital buttons, and some have differently oriented analog sticks. I haven’t done any soldering or testing with a Ps2 controller, so this isn't very detailed, but I do have the following pinout info. The pins count just like the Ps1 controllers above, right to left starting at 1 when looking at the back of the controller PCB. There are 18 pins on the Dualshock2 ribbon, instead of 16 on the Ps1 Dualshock.

1: L2
2: L1
3: Up
4: Left
5: Down
6: Right
7: Select
8: Analog
9: Start
10: GND (Start, Select, Analog)
11: GND (Other Buttons)
12: GND (through a resistor)
13: Square
14: X
15: Circle
16: Triangle
17: R1
18: R2

If you combine the ground lines from pin 10 and 11 you might be able to wire all the buttons just like the Ps1 controller, sharing a common ground. The analog sticks will work the same, except that some of the Dualshock2 controllers have them mounted sideways (relative to the above diagram), so you will need to adjust the wiring accordingly.

There are many different ways you can wire the connections within these controllers depending on your soldering preferences and how you want your controller to function. Having an external controller is great because it allows you to experiment with different control options without having to open up your PSP each time.
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Có a e nào có kiến thức điện tử và khéo tay làm thử xem :hug:

 

vậy phải tốn thêm điện cho cái dual shock nữa, thời gian chơi game chắc sẽ bị rút ngắn

 

cái mod này có lâu rôi
ai nhiều tiền mà thích vọc thì thử xem

 

trông khó hiểu wa. Cái tay có rung không? Chắc là ko, mà nếu có thì may ra pin psp cân đc 30p >_<

 

Nhìn cũng rắc rối. Mà thiết nghĩ cũng không cần thiết lắm. Về khoản rung chắc chắn mất vì game psp có hỗ trợ rung đâu ::)

 

cái tay cầm này trị mấy game PSX sướng tay ở VN có ai đã mod thử thành công chưa nhỉ ???

 

nghe hay quá,để mình ngồi dịch sang tv rồi mò thử,làm cái này hơi bị khó đó,gì cái đầu nối của ổ cấm theo hình trên giống như ổ cấm sau thân máy ps2,để tối nay rảnh ngồi làm thử,nếu may mắn thì sẽ được,bạn nào biết thuốc nào uống vào làm người ta liều lỉnh hơn thì chỉ nha